daiwa saltiga 30T rebuild

[alantani]

ahhh, daiwa......

it seems like the argument is always penn versus shimano. daiwa makes a great line of reels. i think the saltiga is perhaps one of the finest small baitcasters made. first, pull the schematics.

http://mikesreelrepair.com/schematic...2040,%2050.pdf

here is my personal favorite. it's the 30T. well balanced, very powerful, it's small size makes casting a small sardine a piece of cake. i borrowed one of these on my one an only 10 day trips a couple of years ago and absolutely fell in love with the reel. everything about this reel says quality!



um, but this one had a small oops! a friend of mine had this loaded with spectra and was fishing for salmon dragging a 2.5 pound lead ball on a sinker release. he heard a pop, saw the spool displaced laterally and retired the reel for the day. then he brought it to me.







first, let's pull all of the left side plate screws (key #21) and remove the left side plate assembly (key #6).



the spool (ouch!) comes out cleanly, leaving you with three pieces.





the right spool bearing (key #3) needs to be cleaned first, so let's remove the rubber water shield (key #4), pull out the bearing, remove the bearing shields, clean the bearing and lube it up. for a full discussion on bearings, do a search under key word "bearings" and author name "alantani".







the left side plate bearing (key #10) is buried pretty deep. i decided just to lube it up without pulling the shields. it should be fine.



ok, back together it goes. don't forget to add a bead of grease to all the screw holes. now, if all you want to do is lube, clean or replace the bearings, then this is as far as you need to go.



want to replace the drag washers? ok, onward! remove the handle nut screw (key #6, the handle nut (key #67) and the handle assembly (key #'s 61-66).







remove the star drag (key #59) and spacing sleeve B (key #60), the click spring assembly (key #'s 57 and 5, the two drag spring washers (key #56) and bearing washer D (key #55).





ok, the handle and star are off. now for the right side plate. remove all of the right side plate screws (key #53).



wiggle the right side plate assembly (key #41, et.al.) and it should come straight up and off.



here's a little trick. the metal drag washers are often a little tough to remove. when you bolt down the handle nut, the spacing sleeve B (key #60) presses down on the shoulder of the drive shaft (key#24). the shoulder is slightly deformed. a couple of gentle strokes of a flat file will remove this "burr" and the gear and drag stack will come off easily. easy, not too much.



the gear cluster now comes off easily, revealing a carbon fiber drag washer installed several years ago by your's truly. we're going to remove these old penn drag washers, clean up all the metal washers and install a new set of carbontex drag washers.





not really much to this reel. it's actually very simple.



now for a new set of carbontex drag washers.



i'm going to slap a nice, thick juicy coat of drag grease on these washers because i know that really annoys those people that still do not belive in drag grease!



and then the drag stack goes back together. remember to alternate the metal washers; keyed, eared, keyed, eared, keyed. also add bearing washer D (key #55) and then spacing sleeve A (key #40). bearing washer D goes under the spacing sleeve. this is contrary to the schematics but it makes the installation easier.



i've got a ratty old toothbrush that i'm going to use to brush a light coat of grease all through the inside of the side plate. take a moment to squirt a little corrosion x into the right side plate bearing (key #43) as well.



the drive shaft bearing (key #54) is particularly at risk for corrosion. pop out the bearing, remove the shields, pack the bearing with grease, replace the bearing and install it back into the side plate.







add a bead of grease to all the screw holes.



if you did not monkey with the clutch lever (key #4 or the yoke plate (key #2, the right side plate should snap right back into place.



install bearing washer D (key #55), a pair of drag spring washers (key # 56) cupped "( )", and the click leaf spring assembly (key #'s 57 and 5.



grease up the drive shaft (key #24). grease all the little crevasses on the star (key #59) and install it.



grease spacing sleeve B (key #60) and install it.



add a little grease to the handle arm (key #61) around the drive shaft, install the handle nut (key #67) and screw (key #6.





done! now we just have to see if daiwa will send us a new spool. this old spool never should have failed and i'm hoping daiwa will extent the warranty and send us a new one for free!

[Makaira]

Hi Alan,

This spool failure would have been less shocking if it was loaded with mono. Is there a possibility that it was backshot with mono?

If I were Daiwa, I would certainly want to get my hands on that spool to do a thorough investigation.


Best regards,
Makaira

[MarkR]

The smashed spool is indeed shocking

Old news but I had a Saltiga SA40 give up with a broken spool-spool shaft joint when Samson fishing...not my fault!!!! Captain forced me to lock the drag

[Catmarinesg]

Hi Alan,
Where to buy the Saltiga SA30T in Siingapore?
I have asked a few shop but none seem to carry the SA30T.
Any idea on price?

Great write up on the rebuild....I am sold but where to get my hands on them

[DaFrogman]

Catmarine dude,

Alantani is actually a very experienced reel repair personality from the US. The Saltiga 30T is an export market reel that runs a lower 4.9:1 gear ratio than the standard Saltiga 30 which runs a 5.4:1 ratio.

If you prefer the lower ratio, try looking for a Saltiga Z40 which is a JDM Saltiga that runs the lower ratios in lieu of an equivalent Singapore alternative.... and conversely btw, I am a much lesser experienced reel repair personality from Brunei ....

The Z40 should be available in any of the usual Daiwa haunts along the Beach Road area or the other places in Changi.

Good luck,

Saimee