OVERHEADS and Locking Down

[jigjigjig]

Hope some of the experienced Jig gurus here can help...

Just dove into the overhead foray with an impulsive purchase of an Accurate 665N, hoping to fish up to PE6 with it and in the process of custom building a rod to match.

Being inexperienced in the overhead field, i'd like to know more about reel clamps and if they are absolutely neccessary when used for jigging. Thing is, the accurate's clamp is kinda bulky and looks like it'll get in the way of an optimum grip on the outfit when jigging. What's the normal practice here?

I've seen some guys in the pix like MarkR clamp down his 4000P but shimano's seem to be a lot less smaller and doesn't seem like it'll get in the way too much. So, should i do away with the screws altogether? Or has anyone seem an overhead rip right out of a reelseat under high drag?

Please share your views.

[MarkR]

Hi JJJ,

I'd go for the clamp all the time. Feels more secure.

The current clamp design for the 665 is sleeker than what was used in the early 665 production runs. Even the nuts have become sleeker. Did you buy a brand new reel?

With high drag, the clamp provides added security but only if the bolts are designed such that they fasten to the reel frame. This provides a more secure connection- 4 bolts that fasten the reel foot to the frame and 2 that secure the clamp to the frame.

Both the 665 and 4000P have clamp bolts that secure to the reel frame. The Oceanus 30 on the other hand appears to have bolts that secure the clamp to the reel foot. Not sure why it was designed this way.

I think the magnum 665 is a proven design. I can't be 100% sure but a friend on the recent NZ 3 Kings trip tells me that the 665s which were ripped off under heavy drag had their clamps in position. I would think perhaps a batch defect ?!? The very first Oceanus 30 production run had the same problem, this was due to a materials strength issue that was subsequently rectified and of course the very first pre-magnum Boss reels with the 2-bolt design securing the reel foot to the frame had similar issues as well.

cheers

[jigjigjig]

Thanks MR for your input, i guess the answer is simple enough - better just stick with the clamp and try to work at getting a good grip around it.

FYI i got a pre-owned but unused limited edition 665 Extra Narrow. Guess its the new clamp design so i shouldn't be complaining =)

Now to look for a good blank! Leaning towards JM blanks but they seem a tad heavy. Any recommendations?

[ChrisT]

Oooooh...MarkR's favourite JM!!!! JM rocks!

[Akudou]

Thanks MR for your input, i guess the answer is simple enough - better just stick with the clamp and try to work at getting a good grip around it.

FYI i got a pre-owned but unused limited edition 665 Extra Narrow. Guess its the new clamp design so i shouldn't be complaining =)

Now to look for a good blank! Leaning towards JM blanks but they seem a tad heavy. Any recommendations?

JJJ,
The J/M by AG is a good blank and u can customise it to your liking esp base on the height to suit wat u need. I have tried a J/M 350gm Pe 3-6 and with a reel set at 10kg Drag, theres no problem in fighting a fish. If you have watch the DVD on Takat Aji-Aji , where KingFisher meng was spooled out... well, he's using the same J/M 350gm.

[MarkR]

Now to look for a good blank! Leaning towards JM blanks but they seem a tad heavy. Any recommendations?

What sized jigs will u be using JJJ? IMHO a JM300 or 350 is better paired with a Boss 870 while the 665 is a better match for the JM400 or 500.

JM blanks (5'8") are not light but better to crop to 5 feet or so...taking off ~1/2 foot from the butt reduces the weight considerably so weight not much of an issue anymore.

I like my JM jig rods, especially for long heavy jigs. These blanks impart good action to long jigs and can take quite a lot of abuse...watch the JM videos and you'll see guys hoisting/lifting 10kg+ fish over the rail with these rods

tight lines

[galanted]

Oooooh...MarkR's favourite JM!!!! JM rocks!

Valley Hill is very Good as well! Anyone had the Maori Spirits? Care to share some reviews?

[MarkR]

I think the Valley Hills have a good thing going...Mogi-san got a massive Dogtooth Tuna on one of the rods...they also use the PSS20 palming reel seat in the overhead models unlike OH jig rods from manufacturers such as Sevenseas, Carpenter etc...personally feel that the PSS20 is the most comfortable reel seat for an OH jigging set-up. I also prefer a shorter jig rod so the Valley Hills are kind long for me- 5 foot max..better if 4'10" or 4'8"

Not sure how well Valley Hill build their OH jig rods...the 2 Sevenseas OH rods I own have been assembled with the guides spot-on along the spine/backbone...the Carpenter I have has the guide placement a little off...one more great thing about JM is that you can customize the blank to suit your arm length, jigging style etc...can't do that with most Japanese rods!

Also do bear in mind that Valley Hill jig rods are 100% carbon construction...JM blanks on the other hand are not 100% carbon.

[galanted]

I have noticed that the PSS Reel Seat on OJ Reels has quite a distance from the bracket to the Hex. Nut thus exposing the Screw Body of the Screw and the longer Screw that comes with the OJ have to be selected not forgetting that we should ensure even tightening.(I might be Kiasu/Kiasee or Paranoid on this issue) With the T-DPS Reel Seat, the Bracket sits nicely on the Hex. Nut. Accurate does not have this problem as their Locking Screw are machine in a better manner but however, i have heard that Certain 665 can't fit the PSS Reel Seat and i'm pretty sure 665N and 665XN should have no problems. IMHO, the PSS Reel seat has a stronger construction then the T-DPS Reel as the PSS is a single moulded Reel Seat and T-DPS Reel Seat is actually made from DPS Reel Seat with a Sleeve that has the Trigger added on.

[jigjigjig]

Thanks for all the info guys!

Was down at FB hoping to get a feel for a JM 350g SP. Really like the idea of the stick-thin rod with so much firepower. Unfortunately was told the blank has been discontinued, drats.

Had a feel of the other rods like the 400 & 500 and boy were they heavy! However, one which really caught my eye was a Blue Rose "Long Jig Special" rated up to PE8G. Was really amazed by its weight, or rather lack of it! Any comments on that rod? Am skeptical that it'll be able to take the abuse.

Agree with all comments that the PSS20 is THE reelseat to use for a good jigrod. However, must check if the 665XN will fit in first.

[jigjigjig]

Finally settled on an OEM JM 400g blank cropped to 5'2 (even took an inch off the tip for max power), and boy it's a stump puller!

REVELATION...

Found that the PSS20 reelseat can't accomodate the Accurate's clamp screws (as earlier suspected) so that will have to go since i love the feel of the reelseat so much.

[galanted]

I am sure the PSS20 can fit the Accurate 665N. For the Rest, not certain.

[jigjigjig]

I am sure the PSS20 can fit the Accurate 665N. For the Rest, not certain.

Mine's a 665 Extra Narrow. WOn't fit. Tried it last nite after i bought all the components. Guess i'll just live with it.

[mattv]

Mine's a 665 Extra Narrow. WOn't fit. Tried it last nite after i bought all the components. Guess i'll just live with it.

Don't worry, I doubt you'll ever have need of it anyway.

[Mick B]

Just take care with all this clamping stuff.

Unless your using an alloy reel seat all carbon/nylon seat tubes can be damaged by clamping them into oval section!

Remember that inside the reel seat (tube) there is usually only a moderate amount of packing (either carbon rings or masking tape wrapping) allowing the blank to site centrally while the rod bond sets hard (ish).

I've NEVER seen a lock nut split/break in use and spinners never use a rod clamp so ask "is there a requirement for this extra insurance"???

More questions than answers me thinks.

[scarpie]

I agree entirely with MickB. Clamping will distort the Fuji reelseat and break the bond to the blank. We usually use clamps and they feel awkward on the PSS reelseat using OJ4000P, 665, Blue Heaven reels. Last trip to the Ranfurly Banks none of us installed reel clamps and we normally fish high drags, up to 23kg off the reel! No problems and it is easier to jig without the hinderance of clamps. I've never seen a reel rip off a reel seat before and as Mick says - spinning reels don't have them.

[DaFrogman]

Just as a quick add on...

I don't use the clamps on non-metal reel seats. Also if you are contemplating removing the clamp nut/bolt thingys with screw threads used in the Ocea Jiggers, be very careful removing them as they are made of chrome plated brass which has a nasty habit of breaking off if the nut is a bit stuck, leaving a stump in the screw hole in the reel body.

Regards,

S.

[toto]

Just as a quick add on...

I don't use the clamps on non-metal reel seats. Also if you are contemplating removing the clamp nut/bolt thingys with screw threads used in the Ocea Jiggers, be very careful removing them as they are made of chrome plated brass which has a nasty habit of breaking off if the nut is a bit stuck, leaving a stump in the screw hole in the reel body.

Regards,

S.

Hi, i have a broken screw stump in the screw hole of my 4000P. How do i get i get it out. Not an easy task i suppose or i have to live with it?

anyways, lost the reel clamp, anywhere i could it? I guess if i have to live with screw stump in screw hole, then i dun need the wheel clamp at all...hahah..

Thanks.

[jason]

Hi toto,

U can bring to AO and they will be able to help u on this.....

My Boss 665 had its screw broken on the handle when fishing in Perth...They help me take it out and serviced the reel...

Cheers
Jason

[toto]

Great, thanks. actually i have also another problem. I bought a stella 4000SR and he was lefthand reeler. I am a righthand reeler, so i decided to change over but in vain. Brought down to anglers outfitter in bali road and was told that i need a small rod to interchange to right hand side. the rod was supposed to be in the box...which i do not have. Any advice on where to get it changed? If not, may have to sell the reel away....

Thanks.

Toto

[jason]

Hi toto,

I suppose U have lost the small rod. U can also bring down to TTC in st george rd as they are the authorised dealer for shimano. They sure can help u on this.....
U can also ask them for the replacement.

Tan Thong Cheong Co.
Shimano Distributor & Service Centre
Blk 7 King George’s Ave
#01-130 Singapore 201007
Tel: 6297 9596


Cheers
Jason

[toto]

Great thanks, in that case, i can still use this stella 4000SR. What line would recommend? it meas like a small reel unlike saltiga 4000 or even other 4000 series. The drag had been upgraded to carbontex, but feels no diff...

Ask for a replacement Rod? mine has no warranty, doubt they can give me anything free. would also service the reel. I think i need to learn how to do simple servicing. I fish a far bit, so its costing savings if i know.

Thanks.

toto

[jason]

Hi toto,

I will recommend PE3 or 30lb max braided for this reel.
For wat I know, Carbontex is only improve drag quality and smoothness, No jerky Drags but will not increase the drag poundage.

But don worry, it wont be very expensive.....

U can refer to our gurus in Reel maintaintance for your knowledge in reel assemble.
After Hours - Maintenance, Rebuilds and Tuning at fishingouting.com

Cheers
Jason

[JIGW]

I used to work in the tackle industry and we used to do tests on all kinds of reelseats; Fuji included. Without clamps, the seat will secure reels undergoing in excess of 20kgf and can take much more till failure. So personally I dont feel clamps are really a must if the construction of the reel to the reelfoot is secure enough. It does help secure the reel additionally in case you accidently loosen the nutts though.

As for clamps damaging reelseats, that is a possibility as the reelseat walls are thin(they are for a reason) and rods that do not have proper spacers or use rings of masking as bushings in the seat may have such issues. I've designed alot of rods which I have insisted on having solid glass or carbon spacers despite the additional costs; but these spacers are amazingly strong and will easily take over 100kg of compressive force so will ensure that the seat would not deform.

Hope some of the experienced Jig gurus here can help...

Just dove into the overhead foray with an impulsive purchase of an Accurate 665N, hoping to fish up to PE6 with it and in the process of custom building a rod to match.

Being inexperienced in the overhead field, i'd like to know more about reel clamps and if they are absolutely neccessary when used for jigging. Thing is, the accurate's clamp is kinda bulky and looks like it'll get in the way of an optimum grip on the outfit when jigging. What's the normal practice here?

I've seen some guys in the pix like MarkR clamp down his 4000P but shimano's seem to be a lot less smaller and doesn't seem like it'll get in the way too much. So, should i do away with the screws altogether? Or has anyone seem an overhead rip right out of a reelseat under high drag?

Please share your views.

[shineshy]

As for clamps damaging reelseats, that is a possibility as the reelseat walls are thin(they are for a reason) and rods that do not have proper spacers or use rings of masking as bushings in the seat may have such issues. I've designed alot of rods which I have insisted on having solid glass or carbon spacers despite the additional costs; but these spacers are amazingly strong and will easily take over 100kg of compressive force so will ensure that the seat would not deform.[/QUOTE]


can we hv some pic regarding the above. don really get it. I mean terms like proper spacers n rings of masking ?

xie xie