So Similar!

[th2x]

Hi All,

Looking and comparing the Trinidad TN40 and the Ocea Jigger 4000P, its seems to me that they are essential the same reels apart from the gear ratio which to me consitutes the line retrieval rate difference. Other than that, I figure the spool size difference makes the difference in slight overall weight.

Model Trinidad TN40
Line Retrieve Per Crank (in / cm) 44 / 111.76
Line Capacity (lbs / Yards) 30/470, 40/320
Max Drag (lbs / kg) 33 / 15.0
Bearings 6 BB/1 RB
Gear Ratio 4.9:1
Weight (oz / g) 29.3 / 820.4

Model Ocea Jigger 4000P
Line Retrieve Per Crank (in / cm) 36.5 / 92.8
Line Capacity (# PE / m) 3-850、4-700、5-550、6-450、8-300、10-250
Max Drag (lbs / kg) 33 / 15.0
Bearings 6 A-BB / 1
Gear Ratio 4.1:1
Weight (oz / g) 27.14 / 760

Some other differences I noticed:

Trinidad TN40 comes with a adjustable clicker where OJ4000P does not. A clicker is good when we do bottom fishing.
OJ's spool is narrower than the Trinidad TN40 because it was designed for jigging in mind?

Price range is also quite similar between the 2 reels.

So figure if I am more of a jigging guy, should I be going for the OJ4000P because of the narrower spool between the spool?

And on the other hand, if I do more bottom than jigging, I should be going for the Trinidad TN40 instead?

Appreciate all comments and feedbacks.
Thanking all in advance!

Cheers!
th2x

[stickbom!]

Originally Posted by th2x

Hi All,

Looking and comparing the Trinidad TN40 and the Ocea Jigger 4000P, its seems to me that they are essential the same reels apart from the gear ratio which to me consitutes the line retrieval rate difference. Other than that, I figure the spool size difference makes the difference in slight overall weight.

Model Trinidad TN40
Line Retrieve Per Crank (in / cm) 44 / 1117.6
Line Capacity (lbs / Yards) 30/470, 40/320
Max Drag (lbs / kg) 33 / 15.0
Bearings 6 BB/1 RB
Gear Ratio 4.9:1
Weight (oz / g) 29.3 / 820.4

Model Ocea Jigger 4000P
Line Retrieve Per Crank (in / cm) 36.5 / 92.8
Line Capacity (# PE / m) 3-850、4-700、5-550、6-450、8-300、10-250
Max Drag (lbs / kg) 33 / 15.0
Bearings 6 A-BB / 1
Gear Ratio 4.1:1
Weight (oz / g) 27.14 / 760

Some other differences I noticed:

Trinidad TN40 comes with a adjustable clicker where OJ4000P does not. A clicker is good when we do bottom fishing.
OJ's spool is narrower than the Trinidad TN40 because it was designed for jigging in mind?

Price range is also quite similar between the 2 reels.

So figure if I am more of a jigging guy, should I be going for the OJ4000P because of the narrower spool between the spool?

And on the other hand, if I do more bottom than jigging, I should be going for the Trinidad TN40 instead?

Appreciate all comments and feedbacks.
Thanking all in advance!

Cheers!
th2x

From what I gather, the TN40N is a closer match to a Jigger 4000. The TN40 of mine can actually hold more line than a Jigger 5000! To be exact my TN40 holds 600m of PE6 with enough allowance for about 8-10m of heavy nylon wind-on leader. Doesn't matter if you're a jigger or bottom basher, go for the Jigger 4000/5000P! I bought a TN40 because of the line cap. If you don't need such a big reel then there's no reason why you should take a TN over the Jigger for the same amount of money.

[th2x]

Originally Posted by stickbom!

From what I gather, the TN40N is a closer match to a Jigger 4000. The TN40 of mine can actually hold more line than a Jigger 5000! To be exact my TN40 holds 600m of PE6 with enough allowance for about 8-10m of heavy nylon wind-on leader. Doesn't matter if you're a jigger or bottom basher, go for the Jigger 4000/5000P! I bought a TN40 because of the line cap. If you don't need such a big reel then there's no reason why you should take a TN over the Jigger for the same amount of money.

Model Trinidad TN40
Line Retrieve Per Crank (in / cm) 44 / 111.76
Line Capacity (lbs / Yards) 30/470, 40/320
Max Drag (lbs / kg) 33 / 15.0
Bearings 6 BB/1 RB
Gear Ratio 4.9:1
Weight (oz / g) 29.3 / 820.4

Model Ocea Jigger 4000
Line Retrieve Per Crank (in / cm) 44.2 / 112.3
Line Capacity (# PE / m) 3-850、4-700、5-550、6-450、8-300、10-250
Max Drag (lbs / kg) 33 / 15.0
Bearings 6 A-BB / 1
Gear Ratio 4.9:1
Weight (oz / g) 27.32 / 765

Hi stickbom!,

Thanks for the highlighting the OJ4000 closer match in specs to the the Trinidad TN40 as seen above.
I have yet to come across let alone handle or fiddle with a OJ4000. Seldom see the model on display in tackle shops as well.
All of the time is the OJ4000P, a couple of my friends have it as well. Maybe should check it out at TTC should I have the chance.

Understand your advise if I do not need such line capacity (cost $$), I do not need the Trinidad TN40.
One of the thing I do note is the clicker thingy which I do usually "click on" when I am doing my bottom fishing with my other reels.
This is still one thing which makes me hesitant to get a piece of the OJ4000/5000P. I have no doubts of the capability of the both reels though.

Cheers!
th2x

[stickbom!]

Hi I'm actually saying that the OJ4000 is more similar to a TN40N, which happens to be the narrow version of the TN40. If I'm not mistaken, the TN40 and TN40N is available at Chop Hock Heng. You can check em out there

In my limited experience, the clicker isn't all that useful for bottom fishing if you're using a star drag reel. You'll probably be using heavy lines and high drag settings for a reel as big as the Jigger 4000 or TN40 so its going to be risky to leave that rod in your rod holder and use the clicker as your bite indicator. Its also risky to back the drag down and tighten after you get a fish. The way I see it, clickers are useful for leverdrag reels or if you're live-baiting with the reel (star or lever) in free spool.

Hope this has been useful dude

[Makaira]

Originally Posted by stickbom!

The way I see it, clickers are useful for leverdrag reels or if you're live-baiting with the reel (star or lever) in free spool.

Or when you are trolling .........

[stickbom!]

yeah yeah!! Good point Mak

[rodbender]

If the Ocea Jigger has the ArB... ie the anti-rust bearings.. then essentially its more likely that its a better buy in terms of reliability...

[shineshy]

i felt 4000p got better cranking power.

[idpearl]

I have the OJ4000 and now have the clicker conversion! The 4000 comes with a switch to lock the spool, but if you turn the cog around on the inside of the plate, it becomes a clicker instead of the spool lock! Not as loud as a normal clicker, but you should not be far from your rod anyway!

Ian

[thunnus]

Originally Posted by idpearl

I have the OJ4000 and now have the clicker conversion! The 4000 comes with a switch to lock the spool, but if you turn the cog around on the inside of the plate, it becomes a clicker instead of the spool lock! Not as loud as a normal clicker, but you should not be far from your rod anyway!

Ian

Yeah, I did the same thing. But, the sound is too low/soft if it used for trolling. The boat noise seems to be the winner. All I can rely on strike indicator is by seeing the rod bending....

[stingrray]

Originally Posted by stickbom!

...In my limited experience, the clicker isn't all that useful for bottom fishing if you're using a star drag reel. You'll probably be using heavy lines and high drag settings for a reel as big as the Jigger 4000 or TN40 so its going to be risky to leave that rod in your rod holder and use the clicker as your bite indicator. Its also risky to back the drag down and tighten after you get a fish. The way I see it, clickers are useful for leverdrag reels or if you're live-baiting with the reel (star or lever) in free spool....

Hi,

May I know why is it risky to leave rod inside rod holder & use clicker as bite indicator? I mostly do that & would like to know what risk am I expose to...?


many thanks,
stingrray
PS : Of course safety line always secure when I'm not with my setup...

[DaFrogman]

For me, the TN40 is the ideal deep bottom bashing reel. The extra line capacity means that even if you get busted or bitten off a couple of times, you can still lose 100-150m of line and still continue to fish in over 350ft of water. The line capacity also means that in deep water, the reel will retain sufficient spool capacity diameter to allow a faster retrieve.

Stingrray dude, with high drag settings and rods in the holder, there is a chance in some boats for the rod holder to "explode" especially if the holder is made of plastic or fibreglass. For Halibut fishing in Alaska for example where they use reels like Accurate 50s, I recall a journalist that was fishing 50+lbs of drag in the holder and the holder and the section of gunwhale where it was bolted were both ripped out by the fish. There is also a risk for your rod, since most standard trolling holders hold the rod in a "high stick" position when you bottom fish.... I've had the scary (yet also exciting) experience of seeing my GF755H bend in a U on a big MJ...

Personally, I have both reels and the TN40 is the bottom basher whilst the 4000P is the jigger, simple as that. Want a lower gear ratio in the TN40?.... do what Mikey did and install OJ4000P/5000P gears, but remember that you will also need to order a matching set of metal drag washers. Carbontex would be good too, make sure you use the right sized ones.

Regards,

Saimee

[stingrray]

Originally Posted by DaFrogman

...
Stingrray dude, with high drag settings and rods in the holder, there is a chance in some boats for the rod holder to "explode" especially if the holder is made of plastic or fibreglass. For Halibut fishing in Alaska for example where they use reels like Accurate 50s, I recall a journalist that was fishing 50+lbs of drag in the holder and the holder and the section of gunwhale where it was bolted were both ripped out by the fish. There is also a risk for your rod, since most standard trolling holders hold the rod in a "high stick" position when you bottom fish.... I've had the scary (yet also exciting) experience of seeing my GF755H bend in a U on a big MJ......

Hi,

Just wondering... to be on the safe side, how much drag do you think should we set our reels if :
a) setup placed in stainless steel rod holder
b) setup placed in plastic rod holder


cheers,
stingrray

[DaFrogman]

Originally Posted by stingrray

Just wondering... to be on the safe side, how much drag do you think should we set our reels if :
a) setup placed in stainless steel rod holder
b) setup placed in plastic rod holder

The area where the holder is secured to the boat gunwhale is also important. Even if you have a steel holder, if it is not securely bolted to the boat with backing plates, it can still be ripped out.

In either case, I would not setup for more than 20lbs of drag. The idea is to have enough drag for the fish to set the hook on itself and not easily get to structure.

I don't usually leave my rod in a holder unattended. If I want to take a nap, I prefer to take my rig out of the water. If I do leave the rig in and nap, I usually nap next to the rig, with a hand on the rod butt/reel. There have been cases where a rig has hung up in structure whilst the owner has slept soundly, the vessel then swings with the shifting current/wind and if the rig is setup with max drag on a big reel, you can lose the whole outfit or break the rod.

Regards,

Saimee

[stingrray]

Originally Posted by DaFrogman

...In either case, I would not setup for more than 20lbs of drag. The idea is to have enough drag for the fish to set the hook on itself and not easily get to structure...

Glad to hear this... most of the time, I'm fishing below 10kg drag.

Originally Posted by DaFrogman

...There have been cases where a rig has hung up in structure whilst the owner has slept soundly, the vessel then swings with the shifting current/wind and if the rig is setup with max drag on a big reel, you can lose the whole outfit or break the rod...

Yes, when the rig is sangkots & the boat moving due to wind/ wave... the most likely result is rod broken if drag is too much. Thanks for highlighting this point...



cheers,
stingrray

[Makaira]

Originally Posted by DaFrogman

The area where the holder is secured to the boat gunwhale is also important. Even if you have a steel holder, if it is not securely bolted to the boat with backing plates, it can still be ripped out.

The problem is that most of the charter boats in our region do not even put the rod holders on the gunwhale. They are either attached with screws or welded directly on to the metal railings. We all know what the saltwater can do to metal screws, stainless or otherwise, and how it can corrode the welds. If the boat owner does not periodically check them, bye bye rod & reel

I always remember an incident years ago when fishing in Aur on the Mersing boats. We had to bring our own DIY double G-clamp rod holders as most boats did not have rodholders in the early days. My buddy was trolling with a brand new set of Shimano gear, a TBM 4/0 with a full-roller Beastmaster trolling rod. BAM!!!!! There was a massive strike by a marlin. Next thing we know, the rod & reel was gone. We looked at the gunwhale of the boat & saw that the area where the G-clamps had been ripped clean off!!!!! Of course a safety rope was used, but the "Genius" tied it to the G-clamp itself. WAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA!!!!! And we could see the marlin grey hounding away for the next few minutes. All of us were left laughing till we almost choked to death!!! All of us except the owner of the rod & reel that is..........

[rodbender]

Ouch... I can feel the pain!

Maky, you're right that most boats don't have the rod holders in the gunwhale. In certain cases, some of these boats have a sort of railing around the back of the boat.. the top of the railing is wood and there are stainless still pipes holding up those wooden planks...

How would I secure the trolling rods in this case? Would setting the strike drag at just under 20 lbs prevent the rod set from being sunken treasure?

[Makaira]

Hi rodbender,

When trolling, I don't put the lever to "strike." Just about halfway between "free" & strike is about right imho. When targetting blacks and if I am trolling a "soft head" lure, I use even less drag, just about enough drag to hold the lure in its position in the spread will do. From my experience, blacks often do not hit the lure as ferociously as blues. In this light drag situation, only when the fish turns, i.e. when the fish picks up speed after the initial strike, then I push the lever to strike to really set the hook. Blues, on the other hand, often hit the lure like a runaway freight train and as such, a heavier initial drag will help sink the hooks in.

Another reason for not putting the drag at the "strike" position if you are fishing very heavy drag is unless you got the technique right, the angler may find it extremely difficult to take the rod out of the holder when the fish is taking line. You can always back the drag down a bit to ease the pressure, but in the heat of the moment, one often forgets about such details. And if in a panic, you back the drag down too much, can you imagine the mother of all birdnests that can form???

Yo Patudo ....... how about chiming in here

Best regards,
Makaira

[th2x]

Originally Posted by stickbom!

Hi I'm actually saying that the OJ4000 is more similar to a TN40N, which happens to be the narrow version of the TN40. If I'm not mistaken, the TN40 and TN40N is available at Chop Hock Heng. You can check em out there

In my limited experience, the clicker isn't all that useful for bottom fishing if you're using a star drag reel. You'll probably be using heavy lines and high drag settings for a reel as big as the Jigger 4000 or TN40 so its going to be risky to leave that rod in your rod holder and use the clicker as your bite indicator. Its also risky to back the drag down and tighten after you get a fish. The way I see it, clickers are useful for leverdrag reels or if you're live-baiting with the reel (star or lever) in free spool.

Hope this has been useful dude

Model Trinidad TN40
Line Retrieve Per Crank (in / cm) 44 / 111.76
Line Capacity (lbs / Yards) 30/470, 40/320
Max Drag (lbs / kg) 33 / 15.0
Bearings 6 BB/1 RB
Gear Ratio 4.9:1
Weight (oz / g) 29.3 / 820.4

Model Ocea Jigger 4000
Line Retrieve Per Crank (in / cm) 44.2 / 112.3
Line Capacity (# PE / m) 3-850、4-700、5-550、6-450、8-300、10-250
Max Drag (lbs / kg) 33 / 15.0
Bearings 6 A-BB / 1
Gear Ratio 4.9:1
Weight (oz / g) 27.32 / 765

Model Trinidad TN40N
Line Retrieve Per Crank (in / cm) 44 / 111.76
Line Capacity (lbs / Yards) 20/440, 25/330, 30/275, 50/165
Max Drag (lbs / kg) 33 / 15.0
Bearings 6 BB/1 RB
Gear Ratio 4.9:1
Weight (oz / g) 28.0 / 784

Hi stickbom!,

My apologies for the mis-read. Think my "Lau Hua" is setting in!
But looking at the numbers, think all the models in mentioned is really similar except for the line capacities.

Point noted on high drag setting and leaving rod in rod holder.

Cheers!
th2x

[th2x]

Originally Posted by DaFrogman

For me, the TN40 is the ideal deep bottom bashing reel. The extra line capacity means that even if you get busted or bitten off a couple of times, you can still lose 100-150m of line and still continue to fish in over 350ft of water. The line capacity also means that in deep water, the reel will retain sufficient spool capacity diameter to allow a faster retrieve.

Stingrray dude, with high drag settings and rods in the holder, there is a chance in some boats for the rod holder to "explode" especially if the holder is made of plastic or fibreglass. For Halibut fishing in Alaska for example where they use reels like Accurate 50s, I recall a journalist that was fishing 50+lbs of drag in the holder and the holder and the section of gunwhale where it was bolted were both ripped out by the fish. There is also a risk for your rod, since most standard trolling holders hold the rod in a "high stick" position when you bottom fish.... I've had the scary (yet also exciting) experience of seeing my GF755H bend in a U on a big MJ...

Personally, I have both reels and the TN40 is the bottom basher whilst the 4000P is the jigger, simple as that. Want a lower gear ratio in the TN40?.... do what Mikey did and install OJ4000P/5000P gears, but remember that you will also need to order a matching set of metal drag washers. Carbontex would be good too, make sure you use the right sized ones.

Regards,

Saimee

Hi Saimee,

2 great pointers you have stated. Appreciate it!

How difficult/easy would it be to install the OJ4000/5000P gears onto the TN40 for that matter?

Thanking you in advance!

Cheers!
th2x

[DaFrogman]

Originally Posted by th2x

How difficult/easy would it be to install the OJ4000/5000P gears onto the TN40 for that matter?

THX Dude,

If you can service your reel or change the drags, then you can change the gears.... Nothing complicated, straight swap. BUT remember that you will also need to swap the metal drag washers for the ones from the OJ400P/5000P.

Mak,

Thats a hilarious story dude..... I am sure the unfortunate angler who lost the set didn't think so at the time, but I am sure it was a priceless moment watching the black "trolling" the whole outfit complete with the holder..... Thats also why my safety lines are clipped to a d-ring bolted to a stringer on the hull.....

Regards,

Saimee