Shimano Antares DC7 User Manual

[LLCC]

Got my first new reel in almost 10 years last night and it is shiny chrome all over! It is a Shimano Antares DC7 baitcaster and I can't wait to load up with some 10lb Power Pro and start casting with it.

However, the reel I got only contain Japanese language warranty and Japanese language schematics drawings. It does not contain any user instructions.

Is there anywhere I can download a user manual that is in English from the web? The reel contains so many new knobs and switches to play with, it'd be helpful to narrow down the experimenting with a user manual.

Also, the reel box contains a small stainless steel cylinder and a bottle of reel oil. I looked at the schematics, but still, I can't make out what this Stainless steel part is meant to do. Can anyone advise?

Thanks.

[physlo]

Originally Posted by LLCC

Got my first new reel in almost 10 years last night and it is shiny chrome all over! It is a Shimano Antares DC7 baitcaster and I can't wait to load up with some 10lb Power Pro and start casting with it.

However, the reel I got only contain Japanese language warranty and Japanese language schematics drawings. It does not contain any user instructions.

Is there anywhere I can download a user manual that is in English from the web? The reel contains so many new knobs and switches to play with, it'd be helpful to narrow down the experimenting with a user manual.

Also, the reel box contains a small stainless steel cylinder and a bottle of reel oil. I looked at the schematics, but still, I can't make out what this Stainless steel part is meant to do. Can anyone advise?

Thanks.

There should be a software / program that can convert from Jap language to Eng language. Think Mikey had one installed on his PC. PM him to confirm.

Regards
physlo

[JIGW]

Hope this helps you......
The cylinder is to remove the nutt on the handle shaft.....

For using the reel......as taken from the calias dc manual:

"The X mode is designed for extreme casting distances under perfect
environmental situations. This profile uses a braking curve that is designed to
cast low profile metal lures like jigs and spoons, with a tail wind condition.
Ideal uses of this profile include Surf Casting or Competition Distance Casting.
It will typically not be used in normal fishing situations.

This brake setting raises the spool RPMs as much as possible by making use of casting energy immediately as the lure is released, and adds almost zero brake force during the middle stage of the cast. It completely controls the extremely fast muzzle speed that is difficult to control by a human. The X mode is designed to be used with a 8~9 ft rod and aggressive 2-handed casting motion. (We do not recommend using this profile with a shorter rod as it is nearly impossible to generate the RPMs necessary to utilize the braking profile and backlashes are very possible.) X-8~7 is ideal for casting heavy vibration plugs or spoons with a 2-hand cast with a tail wind. It is also useful for casting a metal plug with 2-hand cast a side wind. A 8-9 foot rod should be used. (please see chart below regarding dial settings)Brake force less than X-4 cannot usually be used under normal conditions. These settings correspond to expert casters and stronger tail wind conditions. Specifically, the X-2~1 settings utilize extremely low brake forces and work only under completely perfect conditions. Also, be careful not to overfill the spool with line when utilizing this braking mode. If you feel it is difficult to cast using this brake mode, decrease the amount of line on the spool and then adjust the brake to a heavier setting. If using braided line, we recommend using less than a full spool and only X8~7.


DC BRAKING MODES - L MODE
L Mode (Long Distance Mode: various brake forces)
L Mode, or Long Distance Casting mode, is ideal for low air resistance plugs
like pencil baits, vibration baits, and top water plugs. It also serves as an all-
around mode for most bass fishing baits, from soft plastics to hard baits, that
will provide more control than a VBS equipped reel while adding distance and
less effort to the cast. This brake setting controls backlashes immediately upon releasing the bait and then analyzes the spool rotation during the middle portion of the cast. It is not abnormal to see a backlash begin to occur only to be quickly eliminated. This is called "crowning." Crowning is a result of the DC system hard at work. It is allowing the spool to spin as fast as possible while not allowing the line to come off of the spool faster than the bait is flying. The end result is less backlashes, with less effort and longer casting distances. For the majority of fishing applications, most anglers will choose to use the L Mode. L Mode is divided roughly into 3 categories. L 8~6 consists on a short period of strong braking. L 5~3 are short period of low brake force. L 2~1 is a short period of considerably low brake force. (please refer to chart below) The standard setting for lures that have low air resistance but low weight like small pencil baits and minnow plugs is M-7. Standard setting for heavy specific gravity lures like sinking vibration plugs is M4. Please adjust the brake force to a stronger setting when using fluorocarbon line or under a headwind condition. When using 7 foot rods or longer, no wind or a tailwind, or heavy, low profile baits the lower settings may be more desirable. For example, when you use soft 12lb monofilament line, the standard setting
for pencil bait with single hand cast is around L-6, and for a sinking vibration
plug around L-5. The standard setting for pencil baits with a double handle
cast is around L-4, for a sinking vibration plug is around L-3. When you using a rod longer than 7ft, adjust the brake setting 1 or 2 levels lower. When using stiff Fluorocarbon line, adjust brake setting 1 or 2 levels higher.



DC BRAKING MODES - A MODE
A Mode (Accuracy Mode: continual strong braking force) ?French
Accuracy Mode is not a compensation brake like X & L modes, but instead is
the strongest brake setting and continues to brake during all portions of the
cast.This brake mode is designed to prevent over runs by reducing spool rotation immediately after cast and then continuing to add tension after the middle stage of the cast.The characteristic of this brake mode is ideal for accuracy casting styles like pitching and skipping.The limitation of the 1st generation DC (Calcutta TE DC) is that it only contained one braking profile (similar to L Mode). The L mode is not good at low spool rotation speeds, but by adding this new profile the new generation DC has enough brake force under low spool rotation speed by using the A Mode. Another area where the A Mode is excellent is when cranking using a TC4 or Glass rod and fluorocarbon line. These rods and lines typically have slower recovery rates than a graphite rod, which is why many anglers prefer them for crankbaits. This slower recovery rate allows the bait to "dig" and provides some "give" when a fish bites, but is not ideal for casting. The A Mode will allow for longer distances using these rods which has never before been possible.


DC BRAKING MODES - W MODE
W Mode (Wind Mode : little stronger brake force )
W Mode is an unbelievable casting mode which allows long casting under
heavy head wind conditions. This has never been possible with a casting reel
until now. This brake setting prevents over run immediately after releasing the bait and then adds or subtracts tension to adjust for the flying position of lure during the middle stage of the cast. By constantly updating the amount of brake force depending on how the lure is acting in the wind, it raises casting distance. This brake setting is a compensation brake type. This means it turns the brake on and off automatically, so it does not lower spool rotation too much. A typical brake such as magnetics or centrifugal weights are either on or off, they cannot adjust themselves to how the lure is moving. Therefore, the W Mode raises casting distance into the wind as much as possible with less chance of backlash. Not only is W Mode excellent for windy conditions, but it is also ideal for fixed center of gravity minnow lures (no sliding weight inside), flat-sided crankbaits, large spinnerbaits, buzzbaits or any other large bait that does not cut through the air. Brake force is divided at even intervals between W-8 and W-2. These settings use strong brake force using a compensation style of braking (turning brake on and off depending on line tension) However, the W-1 uses light braking force.
In reality, the W-1 is similar to the L-7 or L-8 brake curve and was added for
convenience. This allows for quick external changes from the W Mode style curve to a castable L Mode style when there is a lure change or change of wind direction without having to open the sideplate and change the Braking Profile Mode. This brake setting is also ideal for fluorocarbon line regardless of wind condition. (For fluorocarbon, it is normal to set the brake 2 or 3 levels stronger than monofilament line settings, because of the stiff characteristics of this line)

Originally Posted by LLCC

Got my first new reel in almost 10 years last night and it is shiny chrome all over! It is a Shimano Antares DC7 baitcaster and I can't wait to load up with some 10lb Power Pro and start casting with it.

However, the reel I got only contain Japanese language warranty and Japanese language schematics drawings. It does not contain any user instructions.

Is there anywhere I can download a user manual that is in English from the web? The reel contains so many new knobs and switches to play with, it'd be helpful to narrow down the experimenting with a user manual.

Also, the reel box contains a small stainless steel cylinder and a bottle of reel oil. I looked at the schematics, but still, I can't make out what this Stainless steel part is meant to do. Can anyone advise?

Thanks.

[LLCC]

Thanks JIGW for the manual. I understand from the Allcoast Sportfishing board that the Antares and the Calais employ totally different braking curves. Besides that, the US market Calais have harder gears and a longer handle than the Antares.

[LLCC]

Hi all,

After many frustrating and trying moments trying to cast the Antares DC7 without getting a backlash (Thank God they were all not too bad), I finally found out why mine casts so poorly - it's got too much line.

I filled it right to the lip of the spool and that's too much for the braking programming. After some use, I've cut off the front few metres of Berkely Whiplash and with the lessened line (level now lower than the tiny chamfer on the lip), It casts very very well indeed.

Valuable lesson to those who just got this reel - It's not spoilt, you just have too much line! Hahaha.

With everything running well, I don't even need to have an "educated" thumb anymore. Everything just runs on the DC technology, and I only need to execute the cast and the stop when lure hits water a long distance away.

[rodbender]

Glad that you have found out that problem.

Kinda nostalgic feeling to know that my experienced ex-mountianeering guru friend can still feel like a kid in a candy store with a $1,000 buy-all-you voucher.

That reel of your sure makes a nice sound when its being casted real far... it paired really nicely with your Trinis.

Hope to catch a gao with you soon...

[Sportfisherman]

Hi JIGW ,

I have been eyeing for DC7 lefty but find it a bit too big physically to palm , in the future would Shimano release DC technology in low profile but smaller in size ( Size 100 ) or say the size of Zillion which I find to be just right for me .

I have 201DC n 101DC , prefer the smaller reel by far and the bigger reel is mainly for spare reel now . Have changed the handle of the 101DC to a bigger handle off a 201 which made it even a better reel than one with original handle .

Jon .

[LLCC]

Originally Posted by rodbender

Kinda nostalgic feeling to know that my experienced ex-mountianeering guru friend can still feel like a kid in a candy store with a $1,000 buy-all-you voucher.

Hope to catch a gao with you soon...

Erm, ya, hope to fish with you too. How do you know who I am? I've been off belay for too long, pardon my asking, but will you pm me to identify who you are?

Good fishing always,

Lawrence Lee

[LLCC]

Originally Posted by Sportfisherman

Hi JIGW ,

I have been eyeing for DC7 lefty but find it a bit too big physically to palm , in the future would Shimano release DC technology in low profile but smaller in size ( Size 100 ) or say the size of Zillion which I find to be just right for me .

I have 201DC n 101DC , prefer the smaller reel by far and the bigger reel is mainly for spare reel now . Have changed the handle of the 101DC to a bigger handle off a 201 which made it even a better reel than one with original handle .

Jon .

Jon, also look out for the DC controlled Kaikons!

LL

[rodbender]

Originally Posted by LLCC

Erm, ya, hope to fish with you too. How do you know who I am? I've been off belay for too long, pardon my asking, but will you pm me to identify who you are?

Good fishing always,

Lawrence Lee

Who else know that you paired this beautiful reel with a trinis, hoping to hook up a Sailfish in Rompin by casting a Tri-aro lure?

Think hard... its not too difficult... there were only 6 of us on that boat....