Jigwrex PE#8

[12345]

One of my friend newly bought jigwrex break into 2 pcs while lifting 10kg dead weight.

[MarkR]

Seems like home-style load tests becoming very popular This is the third home-style load test I've heard of in the last 2 weeks to end up in disaster...guess we all better make sure those dead lift ratings are accurate...now where did i place those dumbells?

[12345]

After rod break he try to lift same weight with 2 others jig rod without any problem. Past few weeks our rod builder also break one xzoga 26kg blank when finding spine.

[MarkR]

Thanks 12345,

Perhaps a QC problem with the wrex and xzoga since both were brand new? Sometimes I wonder if large manufacturers can exercise proper QC on mass produced rods...more so now that production has shifted to low-cost countries. Would be great if every blank could be load tested before shipment

cheers

[mark]

Originally Posted by MarkR

Seems like home-style load tests becoming very popular This is the third home-style load test I've heard of in the last 2 weeks to end up in disaster...guess we all better make sure those dead lift ratings are accurate...now where did i place those dumbells?

sometimes it makes me wonder why does ppl even bother to dead lift a rod.. what would you achieve by doing that? manufacturer do it to promote their rods telling ppl that such and such rod can dead lift these and these weights but other then that i dun see why the need to do a home-style load test.. maybe someone can explain why do they do that?

[physlo]

Originally Posted by mark

sometimes it makes me wonder why does ppl even bother to dead lift a rod.. what would you achieve by doing that? manufacturer do it to promote their rods telling ppl that such and such rod can dead lift these and these weights but other then that i dun see why the need to do a home-style load test.. maybe someone can explain why do they do that?

Maybe they are free i presumed...hahaha

[physlo]

Originally Posted by 12345

After rod break he try to lift same weight with 2 others jig rod without any problem. Past few weeks our rod builder also break one xzoga 26kg blank when finding spine.

Cheng,

I've used my Jigwrex to deadlift Mikey but it never broke leh?

[Makaira]

Originally Posted by mark

.......manufacturer do it to promote their rods telling ppl that such and such rod can dead lift these and these weights but other then that i dun see why the need to do a home-style load test

Dead weight lifting specification is largely a marketing gimmick. Imho, a rod blank that can lift XX kgs does not automatically make it an superior blank. The same applies to Max drag ratings for reels. Opinions differ of course.

[12345]

What to do, after watching AG, xzoga and expert adv. most of the customer will request deadlift or max load b4 buying.

Remember last year in Miri the tackle shop owner asked me to try shakespere jig rod full load, i was told blanks from Japan, first bend ok, add more pressure it "piak" yet asked me to pay his cost rm300. This lesson teach me never ever do that again.

[gabi]

Originally Posted by 12345

After rod break he try to lift same weight with 2 others jig rod without any problem. Past few weeks our rod builder also break one xzoga 26kg blank when finding spine.

Hi 12345,
I have one question please, the two other jig Rods were also WREX PE8?

Concerning the dead weight lift it's systematically shown for carpenter rods, may be the origin of that practice.
One Hundred Rods 56 and 55 are respectively shown with 10 and 15 Kg lift !!! Max or average rating ?

Gabi

[Anthony Lee]

Dead weight lifting is one way of gaging a blank breaking strength and is commonly done by blank manufacturers. Usually, a blank is attached to holder by its butt at about a height that is higher than the length of the blank. The blank is positioned parrarrel to the ground. Weights are then attached to the tip of the blank until the blank breaks. In all such test cases the tip of the blank never bend past 90 degrees from it's plane.

Now, when you dead lift a buildup rod by stringing your line through the guides and tip top, and then attaching weights to the line, you are surely abusing the rod. The worst enemy of a fishing rod is its own guides. Guides are placed on a fishing rod to merely guide the line from the reel. Recently, there was an article by Tom Kirkman ( owner of rodbuilding.org, RodMaker magazine, author of "A Guide to Advance Custom Rod Building, and organizer of the largest rod building show called ICRBE (International Custom Rod Building Exposition) where at least 2000 rod builders converge every year at High Point , NC, USA) who explains why a fishing rod breaks. IMHO I feel this article is most educational, especially for anglers.

Quote
"If you take a rod blank and hold it at parallel to the ground and you then hang a weight from the tip, the blank will load. As you add more and more weight, you will see the flex in the blank begin to move back towards the butt with the tip eventually straightening out and pointing directly down towards the load. At some point, if you continue to apply more and more weight to the tip, the blank will reach its maximum deadlift capability and will break somewhere in the bottom half of its length. At no time during this episode, however, will the blank ever flex to a degree that causes any part of it to move past 90 degrees to the applied load.

As soon as you add the first line guide, however, you introduce a problem. Picture what would happen if we repeated the above scenario with just a reel and a tiptop in place. String the line from the reel and out through the tiptop and hang a weight from the line. If you continue adding more and more weight, the blank will no longer take the same flex profile that it did previously. Instead, the action of the line being pulled between the reel and the tiptop will create a situation which will at some point cause the tip of the blank to actually bend back on itself and move beyond 90 degrees to the applied load. Fishing rods, particularly graphite fishing rods, don’t like being bent to such a degree.

Let’s go further. Add another guide midway between the reel and the tiptop and repeat the above procedure. Things will be a little better, but not much. At some point adding enough weight will still cause the tip of the rod to move past 90 degrees to the applied load. As you add more and more guides, the situation becomes better and better and will begin to allow the blank to flex the way it did in the first scenario where we didn’t have any guides on it at all. And that’s the state where the blank offers its maximum load carrying capacity.

So if adding more and more guides preserves the blank’s greatest load carrying capacity, why not just add several dozen guides and be assured that the blank can be all it was designed to be? Well, when you do that you introduce another problem - that of additional weight that the blank then has to carry. The added weight slows the reaction and recovery time of the rod because more of your imparted energy will now be used to start and stop the rod during casting or fish fighting. In short, you end up with a rod that isn’t as efficient as it could be and one that won’t perform as well as it could otherwise if it wasn’t carrying all those guides.

Adding guides to a rod is a necessary evil. The trick is to add only enough guides and space them so that the line is properly controlled and the blank is never forced into an unnatural bend that could cause it to break prematurely.

But the guides do not cause the blank to load (they could cause it to load unnaturally, however) - the weight hanging from the tip does automatically causes the blank to load. In cause, it would be rare that you’d ever force the butt or mid section of a rod to flex past 90 degrees to the applied load. These problems are almost always relegated to the upper half of the rod where there is less strength and ability to handle an increased load. And, even with enough guides and good guide placement, the fisherman can still foul things up by poor fish fighting technique where the rod butt is raised to the point where the tip easily goes beyond 90 degrees to the applied load. This is what most refer to as “high sticking.” There is no cure for this ill other than educating the fisherman on proper rod use and fish fighting technique."
Unquote.

As a rod builder, I personally feel that the single most important aspect of rod building is a process called "Static Guide Placement". which " deals with guide spacing related to getting proper stress distribution for any blank".

This dead weight lift craze is going out of proportion and I personally feel that when one purchases a rod, trust the manufacturer and their warranty statement, otherwise, choose another. If you need to do such a test, just hang weights on to the tip of the rod, lift the rod but do not bend it anytime past 90 degrees.

Just my personal opinion.

Anthony Lee

[stickbom!]

Hi Anthony, great post there! Wonderful insight for layman like myself Just a quick question, when you mentioned about not loading the rod over 90 degrees, does that mean pointing your rod butt straight up against the sky (perpendicular to the ground) and overloading the tip section OR having your rod bent into an "L" under load? Would it be possible to post some photos/illustration? Thanks for reading this.

[Makaira]

Originally Posted by stickbom!

Hi Anthony, great post there! Wonderful insight for layman like myself Just a quick question, when you mentioned about not loading the rod over 90 degrees, does that mean pointing your rod butt straight up against the sky (perpendicular to the ground) and overloading the tip section OR having your rod bent into an "L" under load? Would it be possible to post some photos/illustration? Thanks for reading this.

I could be wrong .... but I think what Anthony described is essentially "High sticking."

[Anthony Lee]

Hi Stickbom, actually, the article describes the process of rod loading. Most anglers, including builders, are too concerned with guides "not loading" when building a rod. Guide loading has no concern with whether the rod blank loads. Therefore, the article describes the insight into why a blank should be allowed to load naturally, without interference from the guides. The guides should be placed strategically at positions where they least interfere how the blank should load. When you try to load a rod using line directly from the reel strung through all the guides, the harder you pull the line, then, will cause pairs of guides to come closer together. This phenomenom will always cause the rod to break most of the time within the pair of guides, which could be any two guides along the weakest spot on the blank. The blank should never be allowed to bend pass the " L " or 90 degrees which will cause the tip to point back towards the butt which is also commonly known as "high sticking". I also dare to venture further by saying that in most cases, when a rod breaks, it's the fault of the angler. Therefore, the dead weight lift is really a waste of time and sometimes, money, IMHO.

Anthony Lee

[stickbom!]

Aaaaah I geddit now. So even if the rod is held horizontally but the fish is pulling vertically down, it might still result in rod breakage if the fish decides to swim under your boat and cause your tip to start bending towards your rod butt.

Mak guess high sticking has a distance relative called side sticking now! Jokes aside I think a lot of us have a false sense of security when pulling on a rod with the butt parrallel to ground because its hard to judge if your tip is being pull "inwards"

Thanks for sharing the tip Anthony. The other piece of info about guide placement is equally useful to many of us because wrongly placed guides will definitely result in a blank bending in a way that its not supposed to.

[Anthony Lee]

Hi Stickbom, in this very wonderful and fullfilling sport, it's not only between the fish and the angler, but also the rod and the reel. All must synchronize and the angler controls this. Therefore, experience is important before one can be graduated to fight big monsters. This sport can be dangerous when you handle the GTs, YellowFin Tunas, etc., if you have no experience. Therefore, I will encourage all anglers to read and understand how a blank and then how the rod is built. This understanding will allow the angler more years of fishing enjoyment than woes.

Cheers,

Anthony Lee

[12345]

Originally Posted by gabi

Hi 12345,
I have one question please, the two other jig Rods were also WREX PE8?

Concerning the dead weight lift it's systematically shown for carpenter rods, may be the origin of that practice.
One Hundred Rods 56 and 55 are respectively shown with 10 and 15 Kg lift !!! Max or average rating ?

Gabi

Hi gabi,
Yup, the other two were Jigwrex PE#6 n 8, luckily he claim a new rod .

I do have a problem with my el-cheapo Shimano SCIMITAR 6-12lbs cast rod, first cast with my Lucky Craft lure SASARA minnow 105 at paypond it break into 2 pcs, luckily i was together with the shop owner n he witness it, Shimano no warrenty for that rod so shop owner personally replacing a new rod 4me.